I was standing in the aisle today trying to buy laundry detergent and paper towels, and I finally realized the stores are absolutely doing this on purpose to confuse us.
One brand of liquid detergent is priced by the "fluid ounce," another is priced by the "load," and the powder version right next to it is priced by the "pound." Then I went over to the paper goods. One bulk pack is priced per 100 sheets, the competitor is priced per square foot, and the store brand just gives a price per roll (but of course, the rolls have completely different sheet counts!).
I literally stood there with my shopping cart, pulling out my phone calculator like an absolute idiot, trying to normalize all these different metrics into one baseline just to figure out if I was actually saving money or getting totally ripped off. After five minutes of doing math while people were trying to squeeze their carts past me, I just gave up, grabbed the heaviest box, and walked away.
How do you hardcore frugal folks actually deal with this efficiently? Do you just memorize the good baseline prices for your household before you go in? Do you keep a spreadsheet? Because trying to do manual unit conversion on a tiny phone calculator in a crowded store is driving me insane. Am I the only one struggling with this?
I’ve officially given up on comparing unit prices at warehouse stores. The mental math is just exhausting.
byu/SessionHelpful965 inFrugal
Posted by SessionHelpful965
27 Comments
It’s exhausting. I try to stick to the last affordable and usable brand for the next purchase (typically store brand) and to use hand towels more.
Laundry detergent “per ounce” comparison would only work if the same concentration. So “per load” would probably make more sense. But I don’t think there’s a standardized “load”.
Toilet paper math is hard, for sure.
I was in a grocery store this week and berries.All in the front display were priced by the unit, the pound, and the ounce. Fuck off with that noise!
As far as laundry detergent and similar go, i think you need to decide ahead of time, before you go. Do the math at home.
For things that matter, and make a real difference, I **periodically reassess** prices between different options both within a single store, but also amongst each of the stores I frequent. I do it **every few months** or so, and mostly **at home**, online using my computer.
Sitting at the computer with a calculator is a lot quicker and easier than doing it *in the aisle*.
A notebook calculator with built in unit conversions makes this sort of thing easier (e.g. “Heynote”, or “Soulver”)
For things that don’t matter as much, I j**ust buy bulk generics** in the order of priority of stores I know have the best deal, e.g. for me: Aldi first, then either Walmart or Costco. I don’t bother doing the math on these things that don’t add up as much, or as quickly.
Happens on-line too. Things are priced in different measurements all down the possible offerings and its impossible to compare – really pathetic
I typically work out the math once and then don’t revisit it for a year or two. I always buy the same kirkland liquid laundry soap and the same paper towels and the same winco paper plates and the same disposable coffee cups.
For food items I can almost always drop back to price per oz and I just have a running list in my head for certain items, especially items where manufacturers are regularly adjusting size to try to sneak in shrinkflation – for example I target less than $0.15 / oz for generic cold cereal.
It;s not new and various groups have pushed for the last decade plus to standardize unit pricing. I pick the denominator that best fits how I will use the item: for laundry I would convert to $/load; for paper goods either the $/sq. ft or $/sheet. If the unit pricing difference is close enough that I can’t quickly do the math in my head, normally less $0.02 – .05 difference, then I just pick the unit pricing that is clearly marked and move on. I am fortunate enough that the saving of a few cents is not worth my time in this situation.
At this point i know that with any powdered detergent i am using my quarter cup scoop at home, and i know that on average that quarter cup of powdered detergent weighs 30 grams. So, i divide the gram weight by 30 to get my load equivalent, and compare to theirs. If theirs is higher/cheaper, i may buy a small box and see if theirs is accurate using their scoop. Almost never happens with powder, and imostly use liquid these days.
My dish detergent, i use a pump bottle and it dispenses 1 tablespoon. So, ounce weight ×2. And lately the Ajax bulk bottles or Palmolive bulk at Walmart has remained cheapest for almost a year.
My average liquid laundry detergent (not HE or concentrated) i use 2 ounces in a load. 3 ounces for VERY dirty clothing. So, i divide total ounces by 2.
If THEIR stated “load” estimate is more than mine, i try their amount and if it works for that detergent i make note of that and do the load math.
Paper towels, we use maybe 6 rolls a year at most. So i just go by lowest price per roll.
Toilet paper, we use only certain brands because we found them to be the best, so i look for lowest price per roll among those brands. If i see a great sale i buy an extra bulk package.
I do this at home using the prices in the app. If I’m in the store it’s already too late. I’m tired and hungry, the snack bar is calling me, impulse control tank is on E.
I used to memorize good baseline prices but with costs of everything rising so quickly I can’t keep up.
Stores do this intentionally the skirt the law on unit pricing, and I hate it.
Every category has one product in cost per lbs, one in cost per oz, one in cost per each.
I ration everything and make my purchases based on that.
Someone has posted about how the brands doing on purpose specially with things like paper, towel towels, and package goods. That’s why I buy a few products as possible just avoid the hassle.
I don’t memorize the baseline prices, but my grocery list is a spreadsheet.
Aldi is the cheapest for at least 60% of what I buy, and I basically buy the same stuff every time. So my grocery list has 3 sections: Aldi, Walmart, Other.
Under Aldi, I have the name and price of what I usually get from there. Saves me time because I just circle what I need; I don’t have to hand write it every two weeks.
Under Walmart, I have the name and price of what I usually buy from there. I have blank space so I can write in whatever else is needed.
Other what I need from other stores.
I did take the time to calculate unit prices on some things so that I truly know where the best deal is. I don’t do that every trip but it helped me gauge where to shop at to save the most money. Time well spent imo.
Yes they’re all in different units in order to make comparisons impossible. It’s not just warehouses I see it in grocery stores all the time.
It’s so frustrating. I’m a big fan of Popgot for comparing prices of everyday household products at retailers near me.
I have sensitive skin so I just buy all free & clear. If it is on sale…great! If not, I do get the most cost effective by fluid ounce. I avoid the pods unless I’m traveling.
Honestly, the difference is usually so minor that it’s not worth my time and effort. I focus more on if it’s a deal compared to my regular grocery store (Lidl) and if it is, then I just pick one.
20¢ is not worth spending an extra 20 minutes in Sam’s Club to me
I will do the math because screw these bastards!
(Also, this doesn’t come up too often for me.)
Detergent, paper towels, and toilet paper are probably the worst items for comparing. Every brand has their own metrics, and the packs always say shit like “6 mega rolls = 18 rolls”, but “1 roll” isn’t a standard measurement.
My “solution”; I found a store brand TP that I like using that I can bulk buy and I don’t worry about the price too much. The detergent I use is brand name, so I look for the best deal for that specific product. It’s easier to compare one product to different package versions of itself. I’m basically putting product quality over extreme price savings and just being ok with not being extra frugal on these 2 things.
All detergent has the amount of ounces on the bottle or box and for the napkins just use the cheapest one that are good quality cuz they might be cheap but be super thin
I live by myself so I do most of my grocery shopping in places like kroger so idk if this applies, but the labels on the shelf generally tell you in a standard unit (cents/oz for laundry detergent for example)
Also, I’d highly suggest powdered detergent (laundry and dish). Much cheaper in my experience and better for the environment.
Do not purchase laundry detergent, spouse does. For normal food items use a baseline price, only have two grocery stores in my town, and realize there prices are cyclical, some specials are not special.
Need to watch to see if a larger container is actually cheaper, in many cases it may not be. The most sold item tends to be cheaper, this is where the calculator comes out. Plus things change. Would buy the Walmart instant coffee in the 12 oz container, noticed the 8oz is now cheaper per ounce . This is a recent change. Probably the 12 oz is new stock. I was surprised as would think Walmart had dynamic pricing. Just need to determine if it is important. Sometimes it may not be worth the effort.
I never buy things like laundry detergent in the store. Seriously. It’s probably been close to 10 years since I have. I always buy my non-perishable household goods online. My three main go two places are Walmart, Amazon and Costco. After a while, you start to get used to where the best deals for what items you need are, but when it comes to things like laundry detergent, I usually buy it in bulk when it goes on sale or there’s some kind of points promotion or whatever. I’m never just standing in the grocery store, staring at a wall of laundry detergent wondering what the best option is. When I’m shopping for it, I’m at home on my computer and I can do the calculations much easier than when I’m standing in the middle of a grocery store.
Just last week I found a deal randomly on Slickdeals to purchase four bottles of Tide for $9.61 each if you buy four. The bottles are usually $20, so this was a no-brainer.
They are normalized by one metric. Net weight. FFS just divide the cost by the net weight and there is your price per ounce.
That’s why I love shopping online. I can convert things a lot easier at home than in a store.
It’s the same thing with HDTV’s, which I’m shopping for now.
The manufacturer offers models that are exclusive to one big box store, then offers a slightly different model to a different store, etc. Makes apples-to-apples comparisons impossible.